Sunday, April 5, 2015

Michelle vs the StyleArc Brooke Skirt

I made the StyleArc Brooke Skirt because I wanted to make a skirt that wasn't my usual a-line skirt pattern.

StyleArc Brooke Skirt

I was so proud of myself. After adding a second dart to the back for the swayback issue, and taking in the sides a little at the waist, I had myself a really lovely skirt. And it was a bit different!

And then I wore it to the inaugural CBR Sewing Crew session back in February, and while sitting on my arse for 4 hours (with breaks to use the iron and raid the cheese platter), it stretched about 4 inches in the waist. It was embarrassing to say the least, especially when I had to hold my skirt up with both hands on the way to the car to stop it falling down. I blame both the fabric and the construction method equally.

The fabric is a linen print from Spotlight purchased about 5 years ago I think. It is heavier than a handkerchief linen, but lighter than the usual cotton-linen blends I use, The weave is not that big, so I was surprised it stretched so much. But the construction method used is different for the back and the front. For the front, you sew the two panels together along with twill tape, and turn them the right way round so the seam is completely hidden. I even added edge stitching on the inside for extra strength. The back section involves a fold-down facing complete with iron on interfacing.  Neither construction method was enough to temper the stretching possibilities of me sitting down in it for 4 hours.

Line drawing from the StyleArc website

I ended up washing the skirt, then taking the skirt apart from the hip up. I unpicked the waist stitching at the front, and basted the skirts together with a raw edge. I cut off the back facing completely (and the interfacing had fallen off in the wash anyway). Then I joined up the side seams, and added my usual petersham ribbon facing. So much better - and while it still stretches a little bit, it's not enough to affect the daily wear of this skirt. I love it!

StyleArc Brooke Skirt

This skirt is the classic a-line I love, but with an overlapping front panel. I made the long version of the pattern, but it is still far too short for me. I am making this again in a blue tencel for work, and to make it a little more modest I've added 2 inches to the pattern.

The hem on the front panel is constructed first and it involves a mitred hem at those pointy bits. Yes, I felt very clever when I worked it out and it looked so neat! I struggle with the StyleArc instructions a little bit (well, a lot) as they are so different to the way the Big 4 set out their pattern instructions. But I actually got this one.

StyleArc Brooke Skirt

I didn't use an invisible zip, as per instructions, because this skirt was meant to be a wearable muslin, and I couldn't find the stash of invisible zips I bought at ClearIt last year. (Probably my sewing room needs a bit of a tidy up). I also apologise for the creasing and the wonky edge to the upper zip - I took these photos after sitting at a Berry cafe for breakfast for a couple of hours

StyleArc rated this pattern as "challenging" but I would add that the construction came together quite quickly once I'd worked out the instructions. If you are going to make it and you don't have a curvy shape that stretches waists when sitting, I'd recommend using a thicker interfacing on the back section. Or do what I did and add a different waist finishing altogether.

I'm looking forward to finishing off the blue tencel version this weekend, and then I will blog it with a top, made a couple of months ago, but never worn because I had nothing to wear it with. And then, I promise, I will stop being in denial over summer being over (sob) and start sewing more seasonally appropriate clothes. As I write this, it is 10 degrees and I'm wearing flannel PJs and knitted socks ... with Birkenstock sandals because I just can't let summer go.

Gerroa


10 comments:

  1. Mitred hems are go! Glad you could rescue this one- the fabric is too tops to let go! And bah! Summer is still hear to stay... as she sits in her summer gym gear with a wooly coat on. VIVA LA WARMTH!

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  2. Thanks for the heads up on the waistline, I have one waiting for a trial fit before finishing that's been marinating a week or so in the sewing room.

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  3. The amount that this skirt stretched over one sitting was incredible. I don't think I'll ever see anything like that in my lifetime again! So so happy it is saved as I really love the front feature. Sublime.

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  4. Really cute skirt. Sorry to hear about it stretching! What a nightmare.

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  5. I've been eyeing off this pattern and was curious as to whether it overlapped or was two pieces butted up against each other at the front.
    Love your fabric choice.... and I say wear those socks & Birkenstocks! If it's good enough for tourists, it's good enough for 'locals'. Live in denial. I always do!

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  6. The skirt looks great... equally the fabric pattern and the style. Here in Brisbane it is just cooler at night (I'm still wearing Birkenstock and a singlet top and not letting go of summer although summer is having winter up here I think.) We are going to the beach for a week tomorrow with 30 degrees till Wednesday and then 26 degrees. I'll enjoy it for you. No denial here.

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  7. Looks super cool. Summer really is over. Really.

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  8. It looks great despite its rough beginning !

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  9. It really is a great combo of fabric and pattern, so I'm glad it was able to be rescued. Looks fantastic.

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  10. Love your skirt, it looks amazing, I'm a devotee of flanny pjs, hand knit socks and birkie clogs!

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